Spoiled by My Serger

I had two tops I wanted to get done yesterday. Never let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry. I had far more problems than I should have had.

I started with the Scout Tee. Let’s just say that my expectations for this top were pretty low. There is a small subset of women who look good in boxy woven tees and I am not part of that subset. (Also, “woven tee” seems like an oxymoron to me.) Everyone I’ve seen around the sewing universe who raves about this pattern is 12” wide and weighs 98 pounds dripping wet, including the woman who designed it.

Still, the pattern was sized for a D-cup, with darts, so I was curious to see how it would look made up. I got it all cut out, went to work, and was immediately reminded why I never used to enjoy sewing. I don’t relish making clothes out of woven fabrics. I have been spoiled by the ease of making knit tops on my serger. I got to the part where I had to attach the neck binding and hit an impasse. The pattern directs you to cut a band on the bias and use that to finish the neck opening. Perhaps if I had just followed those directions, I would have been okay, but I decided that I wanted an accent color on both the neckline and hem, so I went looking for some Wright’s bias binding in my stash. The fabric was white with small black polka dots.

I did not have any black 1/2” bias binding, although I had every other color imaginable. I had 1/4” bias binding, but I tried to attach that and it was an unqualified disaster. I spent more time taking it out than I had in making the top up to that point. Disgusted, I put the top in time out and moved on to the other one.

The Liesel + Co Easton Tee is a cowl neck knit top. I used some periwinkle blue cotton/spandex that I thought would be light enough to allow the cowl to drape. The pattern does say that if you choose a heavier knit, you might have to cut the front on the bias. I did not and it turned out fine.

The pattern gives the option for using a facing on the back or binding the back neck edge. I chose the facing, although I somehow spaced out and missed the step about adding interfacing to that piece. I ended up having to topstitch the facing down later. If I ever have time one of these days, I am going to put the binding attachment on my Juki serger and learn how to use it, but yesterday was not that day.

Some of the steps have to be done on the sewing machine. The first thing I will change when I make this top again is to widen the seam allowances. A 1/4” seam allowance is fine for piecing quilts; it is too narrow for clothing, especially knits that want to curl. At a minimum, it should be 3/8” but 1/2” would be even better. Very few indie pattern designers use 5/8” seams.

Once I got past sewing the shoulders together—the trickiest part because of the self-fabric cowl—the rest of the top went together quickly.

I was pleased to note that this size included a “boob bump” a la Zede Donahue of the Sewing Out Loud podcast, although if I hadn’t been familiar with the concept, I might have thought the pattern had a problem as nothing was noted about easing in that extra fabric on the side seams.

I’ll be making this top again. I like the way it fits and the length is not bad. The cowl neckline is flattering. I will change those sleeves, though—there was slightly more than one inch at the underarm before hemming and the pattern specified a 1” deep hem. I couldn’t quite figure out how that was supposed to work. I am not a fan of cap sleeves anyway. The pattern also includes long sleeves.

Once the Easton Tee was done, I went back to see if I could complete the other top. I went ahead and made my own black bias binding—I should have done that from the start—and finished the top.

Eh. It fits, but it looks like a maternity top on me. (Interestingly, the length of both tops is the same.) I expected it might because the silhouette widens from the bust down to the hips. I should have set the sleeves in flat, as I am used to doing, instead of following the directions. They are not my best work, but they look equally awful, so that’s okay, LOL. Maybe this top would be okay in a drapey rayon or even a knit, but I’m not likely to make it again. The designer did make it up in a couple of knit fabrics, as detailed in this blog post. Go take a look and you’ll see what I mean about the subset of women who look good in this style.

I learn something even from the projects that bomb. I like the upper bodice shaping on the Scout Tee and likely will use that in other tops because the darts are where they are supposed to be. If the pattern were lengthened into a tunic or dress and made out of a knit, it might be okay. I was reminded again that I prefer knits to wovens—both wearing and sewing—and that I know what is likely to look good on my body and what won’t. I also prefer the speed and ease of making tops on my serger.

************************

We went to a neighborhood BBQ Sunday afternoon hosted by our friend, Smokey. He put on quite the spread—appetizers, potato salad, macaroni salad, grilled ribs and chicken, and fried catfish and hush puppies. I love catfish, so I stuffed myself silly with that and some hush puppies. Several people commented to the husband and me that, “It is nice to see the two of you sitting down,” and “Every time I drive by, you guys are are out working.” I did not realize the neighborhood took such notice of our activities.

The schedule is stuffed full this week. I have a serger class today and another one tomorrow, the grass needs to be cut (probably Thursday), and I have to finish the garden tour booklet and get that printed. Next week be spent making the garden pretty in preparation for the tour on July 16. Hopefully, I can get to my soaker hoses soon, too, and finish setting up my watering system.