A Bug Blouse — Janet Szabo

Simplicity 9469 has earned a place on my tried-and-true patterns list. I have been searching for a good pattern for woven fabrics, because rayon is wonderfully cool in hot weather. I have a fair bit of it in the stash. This pattern is a winner. My usual size fit nicely with no adjustments other than redrafting the sleeve to something less fussy.

And I got to use some bug fabric!

I bought this fabric at Hobby Lobby last season. As rayons go, it’s not the highest quality—Hobby Lobby, not Mood Fabrics—but it’ll do. I always prewash and dry my fabric. That made the selvages shrink (and distort the rest of the fabric), so I cut them off before I laid out the pattern pieces.

The pattern calls for narrow self-fabric ties at the V-neck. I tried to make some, but the rayon wanted to fray, so I abandoned that idea in favor of some black 1/4” ribbon. Honestly, I might just leave those off next time. I probably won’t tie them in any case. The sleeves ended up a bit gathered at the shoulder; I know how to set in sleeves and usually can get them to go in smoothly, but I tried twice with the first sleeve and the rayon started to fray. (Have I mentioned that this is not the highest quality rayon?) I invoked the “Does it look better than what is coming out of China?” rule and went with the gathers. After setting in the sleeves, I finished the insides on the serger.

After some consideration, I also abandoned the bust dart idea. The blouse fits fine without them, and adding bust darts comes with downstream issues.

The only change I will make is to re-trace this and add some length. The top looked perfect until I hemmed it, and now I want that additional 5/8” back. LOL.

I think this pattern could lend itself well to some hacking, too. Maybe a ruffled edge at the neckline? Or something at the hem?

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When I taught a serger class at the quilt store in Spokane last August, one of the students begged me to come and do a fitting class. I wonder if she will sign up for the T-shirt class. At the time, I didn’t feel competent to teach what she wanted. I could do it now, I think—and the T-shirt class will include basic fitting concepts—but fitting is a broad subject and I am not Joe Vechiarelli. It’s taken me a couple of years to figure out my own fitting issues. I think I can at least save students from having to reinvent the wheel, though, with the following tips:

Take the time to make a bodice block (and a pants block, if you want to make pants). Even if you never want to draft your own patterns from it, being able to compare your block to a commercial pattern will save you a ton of time.
Look at the ready-to-wear pieces in your closet. Do you gravitate toward the same brand(s) over and over (coughLizClaibornecough)? What makes you reach for certain items more than others? Are there features you avoid, like belts or raglans? Why?
Do some research and find out what size and body shape each pattern company drafts for. Sinclair Patterns offers a Tall option in many of their patterns, which is wonderful for me as most companies design for an average height of 5’5”. We all know what happens when I try to use Love Notions patterns, as beautiful as they are.
Assume you will have to make some adjustments. Very rarely do patterns fit right out of the envelope. Also assume that you will need to make at least a basic muslin for any new pattern.
Start a collection of basic patterns that either fit well or that you’ve tweaked to fit well—your own personal tried-and-true patterns.
Don’t be afraid to mash up patterns and combine parts (but expect to make lots of muslins).

We’ll see what happens at the T-shirt class. My sense from the serger classes I’ve taught is that people want to make their own clothes but aren’t sure where to start.